On Sushi

Sushi is delectable, delicate, and considered by many a delicacy. Fish, when prepared raw, has a tender flesh that graciously responds with each chew. Done right, a bite of sushi does not offer any particular overwhelming flavor, but maintains a robust and unique. Familiar now to most urban inhabitants, sushi does not have the dramatic history and tradition that one typically associates with Japanese culture. The preponderance of sushi in the United States and ‘the west’ is a new fad, yet its ability to masquerade as a staple of traditional Japanese cuisine for centuries speaks more to its universal magnetic qualities then its un-rooted genesis.

If you consider yourself to be a connoisseur you might already know that sushi is the Japanese word for a dish comprised of fish and rice. Typically the rice has been marinated in rice vinegar. The raw fish typically accompanying the sushi rice and seaweed is sashimi. Even the most ignorant lay eater can pick rice from a lineup. The marriage between fish and rice in Asian cuisine is unique matrimony. While Constantine the Great was becoming the first Roman emperor to convert to Christianity, the Japanese were preserving dead fish between two cakes of rice for future consumption. At this point in history Japan was overwhelmingly Buddhist. This religious sect has a tradition of abstaining from red meat. This combined with the proximity to the ocean infused fish into Japanese cuisine. Caking rice paddies and enveloping fish was the primary preservation method before refrigeration was invented. The fish would marinate in the rice paddies for two years. When rice begins to ferment, lactic acid bacilli are produced. This acid, and salt, slows the growth of harmful bacteria in fish. When prepared this way fish has a sour taste. In fact, sushi, in its original instantiation of the Japanese language, translates to “sour tasting.” Historical context provides insight into the genesis of modern day sushi.

In the 17th century Japan experienced somewhat of a cultural renaissance. Tokugawa Leyasu ruled Japan as a benevolent military dictator. In moving the capital of Japan from Kyoto to the port city of Edo, what is present day Tokyo, he spurned the economic and cultural growth by facilitating the growth of Edo. As Japan’s economy grew, so did its understanding of food preparation. Two important improvements shortened the fermentation process. First the fish and rice combination was compressed. To do this the combination was put into a small wooden box to increase the pressure on the fish internal components. Secondly, vinegar was added to the rice. This shortened the fermentation process from a span of up to two years to mere hours. As the preparation time decreased so too did the years before the horizon of the preponderance of ‘nigiri sushi.’

Flash forward to the early 19th century. Hanaya Yohei is putting the finishing touches on his wooden stall. Vision is blurred by the sandals kicking up dust in the streets, the sound of wading fisherman splashing in the water provides the ambient noise rivaled only by the unmistakable pungent aroma distinctive of a fishing port. Hanaya was oblivious, to the sensory overload as well as the influence of the impending invention on Japanese cuisine. The Ryoguku district where Hanaya was working was a busy and bustling place. Ryoguku, translating to “the place between two countries” was strategically situated on the banks of the Sumida River. This meant that it was a main artery of trade, commerce, and the confluence of cultures. The rapid pace would serve as a conduit of his innovation of sushi. The constituents of the city had busy lives and the growing economy demanded a food that would be quickly prepared, convenient, and of course tasty. Yohei-san saw an opportunity. By setting up his stall on one of the few bridges that served the businessmen he had direct access to the exact market that would benefit from his innovation. He reasoned that he could use fish that were caught fresh from the bay, fish so fresh that they could be served raw. This was possible because the fish were so fresh and the bay, at that time, was yet a virgin to pollution. He would press small cuts of the fish’s flesh onto balls of rice which had been prepared with vinegar and salt only minutes early and serve it to the passerbys. Like a strong current of the Sumida River the streams of customers would soon be flooding Yohei-san’s market. This “fast food” was effective bait. Yohei-san’s stall would be his net, he would benefit greatly from the troves of customers. Yohei’s smiled. Fast forward to the 1970s and put yourself in California. Bell bottoms, afros, and disco, and soon, sushi.

While the country was in the thick of a cultural revolution a new era was about to begin. Nigiri sushi

was about to become make its presence felt. Thanks to advances in refrigeration fish could now be shipped over long distances safely. On the gold coast in southern California two contemporary businessmen were going to provide the western world what Yohei-san had provided the Japanese. Noritoshi Kanai and Harry Wolff’s partnership was exemplary of the new attitude of the country. A Jew and a Japanese man were about to change the country for the better. This is after internment camps and concentration camps had once served to marginalize and brutally segregate Jews and Japanese in Germany and the United States respectively. Kanai had worked in food logistics after serving his country as an officer in the Army working on food logistics for the armed forces food supply. Kanai credits his experience in the military as reason for his commercial success. Wolff was an entrepreneurial individual who put himself in the good graces of Kanai and served as his right hand man for years to come. This would be an integral part of the introduction of sushi to the American cuisine, celebrities became infatuated with the exotic snack and Wolff and Kanai fervently imported as much sashimi from Japan as possible. Wolff and Kanai also hired revered sushi chefs to provide the finishing touches that would allow the exotic culture to permeate the meal and sushi establishments. Expanding from southern California, sushi bars started opening in New York and Chicago.

For me the brilliance is the nuance of the dish. To describe the sushi experience is to understand

Umami. Creating a pleasant savory taste is a formidable accomplishment. Its subtle characteristics are

bold, its complex flavor made of simple ingredients. Less, in the case of sushi, is more. Modern sushi chefs have introduced new ingredients, preparation, and serving methods. Vegetarians and even those afflicted with Celiac disease can partake. Nigiri sushi balances its ability to cater universally while retaining its inherently unique and distinct exotic aura.